WinterCreamWithMoisturizingComplexNow this is the last winter cream I formulated. This time,  I wanted to make it moisturizing as well, so I added a moisturizing complex.

Cold weather in general is pretty harsh on skin so I like to use as much as skin repairing oils as possible (argan, avocado, cherry seed, hemp oil) as well as some phytosterols.

A winter cream should be also an emulsion water in oil – use either beeswax, or in my case, I tried a new emulsifier: Sorbitan olivate.

Sorbitan olivate is an ester of sorbitol (sugar) and olive oil. It is not very easy to work with, but the emulsion is nice! Combined with cetearyl olivate, it creates Olivem 1000.

Winter creams are also perfect for dry skin.

Moisturizing complex I added is from aroma-zone.fr, and should contain all the compounds of skin’s natural moisturizing factor [1], plus some other things that help hydrating skin. : Sodiun lactate, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Fructose, Urea, Niacinamid, Inositol, Sodium benzoate, Lactic acid

Recipe

Oil phase

20% Vanilla macerated in grapeseed oil

10% Argan oil

10% Avocado oil

8% Sorbitan olivate (from aroma-zone.fr)

5% Cherry seed oil

4% Hemp oil

3% Phytosterols (from aroma-zone.fr)

 

Water phase

36.4% Water

 

After cooling

0.6% Cosgard – preservative (or other)

3% Complex hydratation intense (aroma-zone.fr) – if you don’t have, simply increase water amount to 39.4%

 

Instructions

1. Heat oil phase to 70°C (on low heat or in water bath), and keep warm until emulsifier dissolves.

2. At the same time, heat water to 70°C

3. Very slowly add water to heated oil phase, while mixing with a blender – the slow is important, otherwise you risk dephasing.

4. Once emulsion created, hand stir until around 40°C, then add Cosgard and moisturizing complex (if any)

5. Continue stirring until the emulsion cools down.

6. Finally distribute into containers

 

Sorbitan Olivate makes emulsion water in oil, which is the same as in our skin. If you don’t have this emulsifier, try beeswax. Do not use Olivem 1000 or other emulsifiers which are for oil in water emulsions!

If you want to learn more about emulsions and cream making, subscribe and get my e-book.
References

 

[1] http://bmctoday.net/practicaldermatology/2012/07/article.asp?f=understanding-the-role-of-natural-moisturizing-factor-in-skin-hydration